# How often do you change your car's oil?



## AGHFX (Aug 31, 2012)

Hey everyone,

I'm taking my car in on Thursday to swap out the winter tires and have a bit of maintenance done. It has been probably 8 or 9 months since I have last changed the oil so I was wondering if I should have it changed while I'm there. When I last had it changed I was instructed to have it changed again at either January 31, 2013 or 26,600km. I only have around 23,000km on the car right now and I only drive it a few km per day so it will be quite a while before I reach 26,600km. I searched around on Google to see whether it was more important to have oil changes after a certain amount of time intervals or after a certain amount of km but there doesn't seem to be a definite answer. If it makes any difference, I drive a 2009 Hyundai Accent.

So, how often do you change your car's oil? Do you try to do it every 6 months or so, or do you recommend doing it only after driving so many km?


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## none (Jan 15, 2013)

Changing your oil is cheap. You're relatively close so if it's more convenient to have it done now I would just do it.


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## newfoundlander61 (Feb 6, 2011)

Every 10,000 Km's. Usually works out to twice per year due to km's driven.


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## doctrine (Sep 30, 2011)

I would change your oil after 6 months regardless of the kilometers if you're driving it more than a few times per week, unless you're on synthetic in which case you could probably go a year. Most maintenance routines should say have a time and a km rating for each item and it's usually 4 months / 6000 km for standard oil. But 6 months is probably okay if you're only at 2-3k km.


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## 6811 (Jan 1, 2013)

Until this latest 2012 model year car, whose on-board computer tells me when to do it, I've changed the oil and filter every 5000 Km or in the Fall and Spring each year on all the cars I've owned since 1970. I have never had an engine failure, and have kept most of my cars (six not counting current) for over ten years.

BTW, changing the air filter (carburetor/injector) every couple of years (~25,000 Kms) really helps improve gas mileage.


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## Ihatetaxes (May 5, 2010)

My lovely German twin turbo mistress just had her first oil change after 12 months of blissful ownership. My last BMW got up to 25k between oil changes (and that vehicle was flawless over the four years I owned it).

It's amazing what 8 litres of fully synthetic oil can do these days. I have always followed the manufacturers suggested maintenance schedule and since I stopped buying domestic vehicles 15 or so years ago I have had several problem free cars.


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## Sampson (Apr 3, 2009)

How long do you want to keep the car running?

I stick to 12,000km or 5 months, which ever comes first. I run group III synthetic oil.

With short or infrequent trips, the engine does not warm sufficiently and you have incomplete combustion of fuel. This results in severe production of contaminants. This along with the normal 'dirt' from driving in Canada means you really should change more frequently to protect your engine and reduce abnormal wear.

The only way to tell if your oil change frequency is high enough is to analyze the metals (from the engine) that are released during use. Not everyone needs to do this, but the safer bet is to change frequently. You don't even need to run synthetic oil if you change it out often.

If you learn how to do it yourself, you can save hundreds and hundreds over a few years.


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## Greenback (Mar 16, 2013)

I'm running Redline synthetic and I just changed out only the filter at about 5000Km, and topped it off.
That's another option when running synthetic, but conventional oil should probably be changed out by 5000km.


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## lonewolf (Jun 12, 2012)

I have always gone by the owners manual for when to change oil & for the specs needed. I used the cheapest recycled oil that met the manufactures specifications, the engine still ran like a top 21 years latter but body was rusted out.


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## lonewolf (Jun 12, 2012)

BTW, changing the air filter (carburetor/injector) every couple of years (~25,00 Kms) really helps improve gas mileage.[/QUOTE]

I have always changed my air filter when it has gotten dirty. I was told that a clean air filter wont increase gas mileage in the newer cars because if the engine gets less oxygen it just sends less fuel to mix with the oxygen keeping the fuel to oxygen ratio constant. Is it true ?


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## indexxx (Oct 31, 2011)

About three times a year, every 6,000K or so. i used to be terrible for doing it but now I have a car that I love and want to keep it running as long as possible.


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## m3s (Apr 3, 2010)

AGHFX said:


> If it makes any difference, I drive a 2009 Hyundai Accent.
> 
> So, how often do you change your car's oil? Do you try to do it every 6 months or so, or do you recommend doing it only after driving so many km?


Yes it makes a difference. I was about to say you may have just jeopardized your brand new car's warranty (23,000 kms!!) But now I see it's 2009 and probably already expired anyways? With such low kms you will have to go by time, not kms. It depends on many other things.. If you have to ask just follow their guidelines! It's practically a brand new car.. change its oil!!



lonewolf said:


> I was told that a clean air filter wont increase gas mileage in the newer cars because if the engine gets less oxygen it just sends less fuel to mix with the oxygen keeping the fuel to oxygen ratio constant. Is it true ?


Something has to give.. probably a bit of power and a bit of fuel mileage. Driving an under-powered car hard will burn more fuel as well, so if you drive like a granny then the dirty air filter probably doesn't matter. The computer does adjust but it's probably not ideal. I always buy a permanent air filter and clean it myself. Takes 5 minutes and pays for itself easily..


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## AGHFX (Aug 31, 2012)

mode3sour said:


> I was about to say you may have just jeopardized your brand new car's warranty (23,000 kms!!) But now I see it's 2009 and probably already expired anyways?


Haha I didn't drive 23,000km since my last oil change. It was last changed around 21,000km and now I have just under 23,000 (so I've driven a bit less than 2,000km)  . I still have a bumper-to-bumper warranty for another 14 months - the warranty has saved me a lot of money in filter changes and other little car things. Thanks for the tips, everyone! I will be adding an oil change to my to-do list tomorrow :encouragement:


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## m3s (Apr 3, 2010)

I meant that if they said change it by January 31, 2013 and it is now 3 months later, they could technically void any engine warranty. Amazing long Korean warranty for the win though


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## AGHFX (Aug 31, 2012)

Ok I understand now. My last oil change was a few months after their recommendation and they still honoured the warranty (hopefully nothing changes this time lol). Yes, the Korean warranty has sure saved me from unexpected auto-related expenses throughout university!


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## hystat (Jun 18, 2010)

I always do it on the 5's, 5K 10K, 15K etc.. that way I don't have to write it down. 
On my Ford, I just do it when the dashboard says to.


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## Ponderling (Mar 1, 2013)

Yes, every 5k for us too. We drive about 20K her vehicle, 15 k his vehicle annually. Mostly short trips around the GTA.

New oil filter every change. 

I usually do it myself, in our unheated garage, but if the change comes mid february we dig around and find a free change coupon.
Then make the drive, usally about 40k or so to find a 'free' place to have it done. Typically from an entertainment coupon book we buy annually. Oil changes for two cars pays for the cost of the book. 
After 40k the aged oil is actually warm enough to drain well. 

The current fleet - old hers still around the neighbourhood house car- 97 tercel - rusting but still mechanically ok, starting to eat oil a bit - I add thickener now. At 277k.
My 04 dakota with body oil spray annually, at 130k.
Her 09 calibre with body oil spray annually, at 73k.

I have concluded that with the amount we drive that it is body corrosion, and the systems it attacks that is putting the end to our cars, not wearing them out mechanically. I still do the oil changes every 5k.

Oh, change the cooling system anitfreeze every 2-3 years also.


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## Addy (Mar 12, 2010)

Who uses synthetic, and why do you? I know all the google answers, but I'm curious to hear first hand why the switch.


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## lonewolf (Jun 12, 2012)

When I get my oil changed @ Wallmart. I tell them how many grease nipples there are on the car & stand around the viewing area to make sure they are greased. I think a lot of times expensive parts wear out on a car when it is taken in for an oil change & the parts that need greasing are not greased. Its good to keep an eye on it.


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## andrewf (Mar 1, 2010)

I don't know why people would skimp on oil changes. They're dirt cheap, in terms of total cost of ownership of the car.

My car calls for 8,000 km/4 months. I change every 4 months, usually with about 6k kms. I've considered switching to synthetic and less frequent changes, but I don't want to void the warranty. I have another 2 years until the powertrain warranty is up.


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## fraser (May 15, 2010)

every 6K, and never go for more than a six month interval. Am at 300K-burns no oil, leaks no oil. And I do the air filter regularly.

Plus...transmission fluid, brake fluid, rad (with manufacturer's product vs commercial brand), and steering flushes, timing belt as per manufacturer's recommendation. And never at those quickie lube joints.

I get the oil change at the dealer. They have a great promo price and will do it while I wait.


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## m3s (Apr 3, 2010)

Addy said:


> Who uses synthetic, and why do you? I know all the google answers, but I'm curious to hear first hand why the switch.


I do because my engine requires it and has always ran on it, at 15,000 kms intervals (I DIY change it around 7.5k because I drive hard, and that lasts nearly a year already) It really depends on the engine and what it was designed and used for.. switching from conventional to synthetic is endlessly debated on any auto forum to the point that it's become a forbidden topic.

Synthetic oil is better for cold Canadian starts (where most of the engine wear occurs) lasts much much longer even in high temperature (racing) and costs about the same. If you've always used conventional oil and don't mind the short interval I would just stick with conventional though..


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## AGHFX (Aug 31, 2012)

andrewf said:


> I don't know why people would skimp on oil changes. They're dirt cheap, in terms of total cost of ownership of the car.


It's not that I'm trying to skimp. I'm not very knowledgeable with car stuff and some of the things I read on other websites didn't give a definite answer to my questions. I want to make sure that I do it now if it's necessary (which, now I know that it's best I do it now). On the other hand, I didn't want to change it if the general consensus was to change it every X amount of km. Bringing my car in for service is a hassle for me so I want to make sure that everything is done tomorrow to make it run smoothly until it's time to put the winters back on.


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## andrewf (Mar 1, 2010)

When in doubt, read and follow the owners manual. Service intervals vary by make and model. And when they say X distance or Y months, they mean whichever comes first.


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## hystat (Jun 18, 2010)

lonewolf said:


> When I get my oil changed @ Wallmart. I tell them how many grease nipples there are on the car & stand around the viewing area to make sure they are greased. I think a lot of times expensive parts wear out on a car when it is taken in for an oil change & the parts that need greasing are not greased. Its good to keep an eye on it.


what car has grease nipples these days?


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## Rusty O'Toole (Feb 1, 2012)

I have been working on cars since the sixties and I don't know the answer to your question. The best answer is to consult your owner's manual. It will tell you not only how often to change the oil but exactly what kind to use.

There is probably more bad information on this subject than any other concerning car maintenance. So go right to headquarters and get the facts.

While you are at it, read the fine print. They often have one general recommendation plus another, more frequent change interval for severe service or heavy duty use. But if you read the fine print, nearly everybody should follow the more frequent interval. For example if you drive in cold weather, short trips of less than 10 miles, or do less than the recommended mileage in 6 months etc.

PS when I worked in the garage business I noticed that some customers piled up phenominal kilometers (300,000, 400,000KM or more) with minimal repairs, and no major repairs. In every case this was owners who followed the factory maintenance recommendations.

For example have you ever changed your brake fluid? It's in the book. Some customers had this done, and when they needed a brake job all it cost them was a $35 set of brake pads. Their calipers never seized up and their brake discs never got scored because they changed the pads before they were down to the metal.

Others who never maintained their cars and only got a brake job when the brakes failed, were in for a $700 to $1000 repair.


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## Sampson (Apr 3, 2009)

Yeah, manufacturer suggested servicing and maintenance. Best way to go.

I run synthetic because I have long change intervals and do quite of bit of highway style driving, and long distance trips in the summer.


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## cainvest (May 1, 2013)

Yet another one for do what the owner's manual says, especially if you are under warranty.

I run synthetic in all my engines though only one car requires it. Years ago I did oil analysis to compare a good brand regular vs a middle of the road synthetic and the synthetic did hold up much better over the same mileage (16k interval). Given the very cold weather here I just run it year round now.


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## NorthKC (Apr 1, 2013)

As I must follow the maintenance schedule for warranty, I do it every 4 months or 8K with synthetic oil. On my old car, it was always 4 months or 5K for semi-synthetic and never had an issue. If there was one thing that was drilled into me, follow the owner's manual. Always err on side of caution!.


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## lonewolf (Jun 12, 2012)

hystat said:


> what car has grease nipples these days?


hi, hystat

My 2005 Pontiac Sunfire has one on each side of the front end. I think my Moms 2009 ford Fusion has one on each side of the front end but would have to double check on it. Other cars I dont really know because I dont need to know unless I buy one.


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## AGHFX (Aug 31, 2012)

I decided to go for the maintenance package that Hyundai recommends at 24,000km. I'm not quite there yet but I thought this should get me through the next few months (at least.. I hope lol). $168.10 to have tires swapped, oil and filters changed, brake and engine fluids replaced, brakes adjusted, cleaned, and lubricated, and have door hinges and locks cleaned up and lubricated (they washed my car too!). They also addressed my check engine light and replaced my gas cap and fixed a strut and my exhaust pipe, all under warranty.

I consider that a pretty successful visit, no? Thanks a lot for all of your wisdom! :biggrin:


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## cainvest (May 1, 2013)

All for $168 ... sounds like a good deal to me from what you described.
Why did they replace the gas cap, was it related to the check engine light? Also, did they make note of the code(s) on your bill that caused the check engine light to go on? Those codes can be good to know for future reference.


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## Sampson (Apr 3, 2009)

AGHFX said:


> brake and engine fluids replaced


For $168? they flushed and changed your brake fluid? in addition the the engine oil and filter? Price is very good.

What is engine fluids though? Is this a coolant flush also? or does that just refer back to the engine oil?


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## Rusty O'Toole (Feb 1, 2012)

Replacing the gas cap, probably the rubber gasket seal failed. This is an emissions thing. A leaky gas cap gasket can allow unburned hydrocarbon fumes into the atmosphere.

If this seems trivial, today's engines are so pollution free that the smell of gas that escapes when you fill your tank, causes more air pollution than burning the whole tank of gas.

As for the grease fittings. Lots of cars don't have them anymore but they do require greasing at long intervals, like 30,000 to 50,000 miles. The dealer removes a plug, screws in a fitting, and greases the joint.


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## AGHFX (Aug 31, 2012)

cainvest said:


> Why did they replace the gas cap, was it related to the check engine light? Also, did they make note of the code(s) on your bill that caused the check engine light to go on? Those codes can be good to know for future reference.


My engine light was constantly on for a couple months (didn't cycle on and off) so I asked them to diagnose it. They told me it was the gas cap and something to do with emissions (like what Rusty is saying). Although trivial, I appreciate that things like this are covered under warranty so I'm not paying out of pocket. My invoice has the codes on it. 



Sampson said:


> What is engine fluids though? Is this a coolant flush also? or does that just refer back to the engine oil?


I believe just oil. I asked about coolant while I was there and I was told they check it but it's usually not necessary to replace until about 30,000km. At the end they didn't replace the coolant so I'm assuming it's fine for the next while. I'll probably ask about it again this fall when I go in.

I'm not a big car guy so my knowledge is very limited (I'm slowly learning practical things though :tongue-new. I'm trying to keep this car in a good running condition to use for the next few years and hope it has *some* resale value when it's time to part.


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## jamesbe (May 8, 2010)

How old is your Hyundai, sounds like a lot of issues


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## Sampson (Apr 3, 2009)

No need to be a big car guy and no need to do any of the items yourself.

New cars run as well as can be with the routine maintenance so just bring it into the shop every 3-6 months.

Some of the items on your list for $168 are fantastic and everyone should be doing them more often. For example, taking the breaks apart for inspection can be very critical in Canadian driving conditions. Dirt, salt and other crap can get in there and not only reduce the lifespan of your brake pads, but can also result in some dangerous driving conditions. Sounds like this dealer has a pretty good semi-annual package so you should stick with them.


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## AGHFX (Aug 31, 2012)

jamesbe said:


> How old is your Hyundai, sounds like a lot of issues


It's a 2009. It's not that I'm having "issues" with the car, I'm just finally realizing that I need to put a bit more money and attention into maintenance. I feel no utility from maintenance expenses but I'm being particularly picky with everything now because there's 14 months left on the warranty and I want to make sure that everything that would need to be replaced is covered under warranty before it expires. Over the four years I've owned the car this has been the second time I've taken it in to have something other than an oil change or tire swap. That's likely why I had so much done during this visit but overall I consider my auto expenses to be VERY minimal. The only "repair" I've had to pay out of pocket thus far is I had to replace my front brakes during inspection a few months ago and they only charged me $160 for parts and labour.


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## cainvest (May 1, 2013)

I have to say their work rates seem very low, much lower than normal stealerships ... sorry, that's my nickname for dealerships. 
I avoid dealerships whenever I can but you might actually have found a good one, maybe. Only one concern, replacing brake pads @ 24,000km is really, really early for that kind of work and something I would check on the car forums for your exact model of car.


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## Rusty O'Toole (Feb 1, 2012)

24000 not out of line if you do a lot of stop and go driving or live in a hilly area. 24000 in 4 years suggests short trips, city driving.


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## AGHFX (Aug 31, 2012)

cainvest said:


> I have to say their work rates seem very low, much lower than normal stealerships ... sorry, that's my nickname for dealerships.
> I avoid dealerships whenever I can but you might actually have found a good one, maybe. Only one concern, replacing brake pads @ 24,000km is really, really early for that kind of work and something I would check on the car forums for your exact model of car.


They did just shy of an hour and a half of labour and only charged me for an hour :encouragement:. This dealership is quite reasonable. Although I know some mechanics who can do the same work for a bit less money, I would have to drive 20 minutes vs. going to the dealership that's a 3 or 4 minute drive from my house - so I think it's worth it, especially to have the dealer's stamp.

The brake pads had to be replaced because they started to seize up. I went a couple months where I would drive my car maybe once a week and they told me that it's likely from sitting idle in the driveway, being exposed to the elements. Either way, it was necessary to replace them to pass inspection.


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## My Own Advisor (Sep 24, 2012)

Driving about 5,000 km per 3 months, just over 3 months, maybe 3 times per year.


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## Greenback (Mar 16, 2013)

> The brake pads had to be replaced because they started to seize up. I went a couple months where I would drive my car maybe once a week and they told me that it's likely from sitting idle in the driveway, being exposed to the elements. Either way, it was necessary to replace them to pass inspection.


Brake pads have a wear indicator that begins to rub on the disc making a squealing sound.
That's when you need to replace them. They don't wear from not being used sitting in the driveway.

They don't "seize up".


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## jcgd (Oct 30, 2011)

Yes that's kind of odd. Since brake pad are usually ceramic or another strong material I would be quite alarmed if they weren't rigid. 

Maybe the piston could sieze up or stick, but I don't see how that would require new pads. Whenever my car sits for long periods you can hear/feel a bit of grinding as you brake the first few times and the pads scrape the grime and rust off the rotors that has formed while the car sat. That usually takes a winter or so though.

I just had my car in for a service and my brake pads are at "25%" in the rear. I changed them last summer and they are still 6-7mm thick. According to my dealership the brake pads always need to be changed. 

My last service I needed:
- My door hinge fixed (because it closes too freely)
- My clutch done (it's fine, never slips, never sticks, never does anything abnormal)
- My rear seal changed (said we might as well while we replace the clutch. Makes sense but there is no leak or bad clutch.)
- New front brake pads and rotor machining (rotors are fine, pads are about 4mm thick)
- New rear pads and new rotors (rotors will be replaced next time I change the pads, but the pads are really fresh.)
- Ironically, they didn't mention my serpentine belt which really needs replacing.

You have to be really careful getting service done. They will take you out back and shoot you if you aren't careful. My old tech was excellent, only doing what was really required and making suggestions. However, he recently moved to another job and the new tech is just trying to push services. It's a bummer that I won't be able to go there anymore.


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## hystat (Jun 18, 2010)

I suspect what he means is the caliper seized on the guides, so the caliper could no longer center itself, causing one of the 2 pads to wear out.


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